Views of the Past: Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Even those of us who are not geographers know that the capital city of Bulgaria is Sofia. However, this has only been the case since 1879, after the Ottomans were defeated in the Russo-Turkish war and the Bulgarians were granted autonomy under Ottoman suzerainty via the Treaty of San Stefano. I seem to recall being told by our tour guide that Sofia was selected as the new capital because there were hopes of Macedonia being reintegrated into a Bulgarian state, and Sofia was geographically closer to Macedonia than the old capital, Veliko Tarnovo, which is in the north central part of the country. Despite all this, Veliko Tarnovo (which has been a settlement for five thousand years) remains the historical and cultural capital of Bulgaria. It is home to some impressive monuments that give the visitor a sense of the country’s tumultuous past.

   above: Archaeological park on a hill near the fortress. Unfortunately, we did not get to visit it.

Medieval castles are always a bit magical, especially when perched atop a hill surrounded by trees and steeply climbing roads. The mind is filled with thoughts of folk tales and legends of long ago. One such evocative place is the Tsarevets Fortress, a medieval citadel originally built in the late twelfth century by the Asen rulers of Bulgaria (who rebelled against Byzantine rule in 1185 because of a tax increase levied by the Byzantine Emperor. I am sure we can all empathise). The complex was both a formidable fortress and home to many churches, monasteries, administrative buildings, and houses until 1393, when the Turks invaded and razed it to the ground. The current constructions on the site were largely built in the twentieth century from what foundations remained. Notable parts of the partially reconstructed citadel are the so-called Baldwin’s Tower where the Emperor Baldwin I of Constantinople was supposedly imprisoned and died, and the Execution Rock, a precipice positioned next to a chapel where the condemned would be given last rites and then be either beheaded or simply pushed alive from the rock into the river Yantra below, depending on the whim of the king. Nice. Not sure which fate I’d prefer.

above: Tsarevets Fortress.

above: Artist's impression of what the palace looked like in the fourteenth century.

above: Artist's impression of the chapel which once stood next to the Rock of Execution.

above: Rock of Execution.

The Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of the Lord was the seat of the Bulgarian Patriarch from the twelfth to the fourteenth century, but the building was also destroyed by the Ottomans in 1393. It was rebuilt in the 1970s and 1980s and redecorated with modern frescoes depicting key moments in Bulgaria’s history by the artist Teofan Sokerov. These murals are controversial, with some regarding them as disrespectful in a formerly religious building, and their presence prevents reconsecration of the structure as a church. Of course, they were painted in the Communist era, when the official state position was an atheistic one. However, others consider the frescoes important modernist works. I can see why they polarise opinion, but personally, I think they are quite striking and thought-provoking.

above, and next 5 photos: Frescoes inside the Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension.

above: Artist's impression of the Patriarchal church and Patriarch's residence in the fourteenth century.

Also worth seeing up close (though it can be viewed from various places in the city) is the Asen Monument, erected in the 1980s to memorialise the rebellion of Ivan and Peter Asen against the Byzantine Empire in 1185. The Asen family went on to found a powerful dynasty and ruled Bulgaria for a century. The monument depicts the first four Asen rulers: Ivan, Peter, Kaloyan, and Asen II. There is also what looks like a Soviet-era Madonna figure, although I’m not entirely sure what she’s there to represent. There’s something ironic about Communist art commemorating a victorious Christian monarchy; mind you, I suppose it’s all very heroic and patriotic—useful characteristics for any regime to foster and inspire national pride. As with the reconstructed buildings of the citadel, the monument provides a sort of interesting abridgement of Bulgarian history, representing its triumphs, upheavals, and reconstitution from the Middle Ages to the present day.

above, and next two photos: Asen Monument.

above: View of Veliko Tarnovo. On the left you can see the minaret of a mosque, the only one remaining in the city. A church is virtually opposite, on the right. Muslims and Christians (both moderate) live here, along with a small gypsy population.

If, like me, you revel in a combination of history and dramatic scenery to stir your imagination, Veliko Tarnovo should be added to your bucket list immediately. An intersection of art, empires, executions, kings, clashes, and castles, it is a cultural capital indeed.

 

For more information: Visit Veliko Tarnovo | velikoturnovo.info