Taking the Plunge: Szechenyi Thermal Baths, Budapest

I’ve always wondered what it was like to be a Roman going off for a social bath time as opposed to scrubbing and luxuriating in the tub on one’s own, but fairly obviously one doesn’t get too many opportunities these days to find out. Not where I live, anyway. Thus it was that when I visited Budapest I was surprised and delighted to discover the city boasts several bath-houses. Those Romans knew a thing or two, and on moving into and conquering the city (then known as Aquincum) in the first century AD, they combined two of their favourite pastimes (outside of fighting) of bathing and building. They exploited the area’s natural thermal springs and built luxurious bath-houses. A bit like they did in Bath, really. They weren’t the only ones to enjoy a regular spa day: when the Turks invaded in the sixteenth century, they brought hamams with them. Conquest was seemingly all about bringing spas to the great unwashed masses (not sure that applied with some of those who invaded my own country of England over the centuries, as I think they were generally rather a mucky lot).

Budapest’s citizens were obviously very into bathing (I approve of this), and were still building bath complexes into the twentieth century. Apparently a chap called Vilmos Zsigmond was drilling a well in 1879 and struck hot water, so the obvious thing to do was to construct a beautiful Neo-Baroque bath-house, which was completed between 1909-13. This was Szechenyi, the biggest baths complex in Budapest and also I believe in Europe. So, I decided this was the one I would visit. Actually, it was also the one nearest my hotel.

On arrival, I was wowed by the gorgeous interior, which included a fountain featuring a statue of a centaur. Light shone down from a cupola decorated with a fabulous mosaic depicting the Greek god Helios. I opted for a ticket including a private changing cabin to allow me to slip into my swimsuit (I’ve said before that I’m pretty prim). Besides, I needed somewhere to leave my toga.

There are, as you would expect, lots of different pools to choose from. I started with an indoor one with a tepid temperature. I sat on a ledge, immersed up to my chest, and smiled a little at the bunch of strangers likewise assembled in the water. It was difficult to strike up small talk (well, I don’t speak Hungarian, or indeed any language other than English fluently, so it’s not just a lack of social skills on my part). I’m also not good at sitting still, so I moved on around the pools quite quickly. Some were in rooms evocative of your average municipal swimming bath, but others had marble pillars and looked more like a posh Roman spa. My favourite indoor pool was in one such colonnaded room. The water was 38 degrees centigrade, and therefore delightfully and invitingly warm. I did provoke some mirth from other bathers when I dipped my toe (and no more of myself) into the cold pool. I think my face of horror said it all. I know it’s meant to be good for you and everything, but I don’t do properly cold water. It doesn’t align with my preference for comfort. Still, a couple of (in my opinion) mad fools seemed to be calmly enjoying the general frigidity of the situation, so I guess it takes all sorts.

I popped outdoors, had a few minutes in the sauna, and then ventured into the large outdoor pool. This was a pleasant 29 degrees centigrade. I particularly enjoyed the whirlpool bit, where you get spun round and round and everyone is laughing and splashing about. Brings out one’s inner child. If you are so inclined, you can swim in the separate large rectangular pool outside, but you need a swimming cap, and also to not be lazy, and I’m afraid I failed on both counts.

I didn’t see the whole complex, as I had other places to go that day, but you can spend the entire day there and book various spa packages. Apparently spa parties (sparties, obvs) are also held at Szechenyi, although not on the occasion of my visit; and anyway I’m a terrible party animal (by which I mean I lack the requisite wildness of spirit to fully enjoy myself).

I thoroughly recommend a visit. I was umming and ahing over whether to go initially, but it turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of my Budapest trip. It’s an unusual addition to a city break, and a splendid way to take the weight off your feet, relax, and refresh. And pretend to be a Roman.

Website for the baths: Széchenyi Thermal Bath - [Official website] (szechenyibath.hu)